The Matter of Gray

After more than a decade in oblivion, gray makes a comeback 

Gray has made a big comeback on fashion runways. From fall’s gunmetal and charcoal to spring-like dove, this hue remains a strong favourite throughout 2008.

But why this fascination for the color of brain cells, corporate players, aging temples and 90s minimalism? And why now?

From the Paul Hardyspring 08 collction
Photo: Marek Wlazlo

Astrology is the study of cycles, as reflected in the movement of the planets. It’s also a tool for making sense of the human psyche and resulting behaviors. And so helps divine the whys and wherefores of the trends.

In September 2007 the planet Saturn, a cosmic arbiter of fashion, slipped into something Virgo. Since ancient times that sign has been associated with quicksilver. The predominance of shades of grey reflects the affinity. As do the many muted platinum effects in fabrics and makeup.

This year Saturn has a chummy relationship with two planets trying on the sign of Capricorn for size in 2008, Jupiter and Pluto. Capricorn loves to go back to basics, and both these planets are prone to extremes. Hence the preponderance of black and white in spring collections.

Gray is Saturn’s way of tempering the extremism by striking a compromise. After all when you mix black with white, that’s what you get. Along with the assertiveness and strength of black, grey expresses understated elegance.

Our liking for the effect may have more to do with the furious pace at which we live, according to Marilyn Morley, a Montreal-based fashion director who has worked with major Canadian magazines. "Gray is a colour of a blur," she said. "And everything is happening so fast today. I think our yearning for gray is to somehow freeze-frame life, so we can get a better grip on what’s happening."

Psychologists who study color say it is a neutral, balanced shade. People who favor it generally are cool and conservative, and not prone to strong emotion. As the color of a cloudy sky, it can also denote moody types.

Heading into spring, it’s definitely time to lighten up. Light grays coordinate beautifully with pastel blue, lavender, or green, and help tone down some of the saccharine girliness. Darker gray provides a strong statement when pared with hot pink or other neon colors of the season. And don’t forget there are shades of gray, which done up in a frothy diaphanous frock, would be totally in.